Tuesday, June 11, 2019

Albergues and Other Lodging

Interesting blog posts out there for lodging suggestions.
"Hi Scruffy, my mother and I walked the Camino Frances this year and stayed in private rooms all the way. Some albergues, some pensions, casas rurales etc. For Mum who will be 80 this year, our own bathroom was a non-negotiable component, so we limited ourselves to places that had those. I'll just mention the albergues we stayed at since you asked about albergues specifically:

Cirueña - Albergue Victoria (NB not the same place as Casa Victoria in the same village, although I think it may have the same owners)
Cardeñuela Riopico - Albergue Santa Fe
Fonfria - Albergue A Reboleira
Salceda - Albergue Turistica Salceda

All were very pleasant, with private double rooms "con baño", very reasonable prices, and I would highly recommend any and all of these.

We stayed in private rooms in these albergues. Most had en-suite bathrooms (I've indicated the ones that didn't). No complaints about any of them:


Lorca: La Bodega 
Belorado: El Caminante
Hontanas - El Puntido (shared bathroom)
Boadilla - En el Camino (private rooms are in an adjacent casa - as good as a hotel)
El Burgo Ranero - Albergue Laguna
Villar de Mazarif - Albergue San Antonio - has rooms with and without a bathroom
Fonfria - Albergue a Reboleira. 
San Mahmed del Camino - Albergue Paloma y Lena.
Villacha - Casa Banderas. One dorm and one private room. Shared bathroom (between 10 people)
Finisterre - Albergue do Mar. Big room, sea views.
Santiago - Hostel Alfonso... pretty.. private rooms. overlook cathedral.
***So we arrive in a town, but we take a taxi to a private room albergues outside the major town or city? privacy at times might be nice...
Muxia.What a wonderful, peaceful place to rest and recuperate after your Camino.
Albergue Arribada is the best albergue I have stayed in. Spotlessly clean, private sleeping pods, excellent kitchen and laundry. Ocean water foot bath and amazing rooftop terrace.
To make it totally perfect the owner Oura is a delight!


 SJPP lodging fav.  Beileri , Gite Azkorria,Hotel Ramuncho, Makila.Hotel Restaurant des Remparts , Amore hostel
Albergue recommendations.For those setting off to walk the Camino Frances this year, I'd like to list some of the places I stayed, as this is often a question on FB or online forums. I walked last Spring, March 29 to May 3, Saint Jean to Santiago, taking 35 days. I wanted, and experienced, about as broad a range of places that I could get. I especially liked atmosphere, meaning communal meals (vegetarian if possible) meaningful interactions with pilgrims and hospitaleros and enjoyed roughing it on occasion. Keep in mind what I was looking to experience as you read my recommendations! Your wants may be different. For me the Camino was a true pilgrimage and I sought out places that added to the spiritual experience, so it included lots of parochials and donativos.1. SJPDP--Beiliri. Great hosts, comfortable rooms, no wi-fi, across from the Pilgrim office, vegetarian, best breakfast. Perfect start. They will pack a lunch for the next day.2. Roncesvalles--Municipal. An experience not to be missed.3. Zubiri--Suseia. I tried to stay there, but it was full, but heard it was really good. Longer walk to get there.4. Pamplona--Jesus y Maria. Another experience not to miss. Close to the Cathedral. BTW, there are plenty of cafes to eat at on the way out of town, so skip the breakfast that this alberque offers.5. Puenta la Reina--La Puenta. Very nice balconies and kitchen. hotel Jakur (looks great,, lots of great reviews)6. Estella--San Miguel, tight, but very friendly parochial. (Donativo)7. Los Arcos--Casa de la Abuela. Communal meals and they will wash and dry your laundry for 2 or 3 euros!8. Logrono--Iglesia de Santiago. Parochial, with a communal meal and a pilgrim blessing. (Donativo)9. Najera--Puerta de Najera. In center of town.10. Granon--San Juan Bautista. You'll sleep on the floor on a mat, eat a communal meal in a huge dining room and experience an awesome pilgrim blessing in an ancient church. Loving hospitaleros. (Donativo)11. Tosantos--San Franciso de Asis. Much like Granon, but smaller, with a nice evening blessing. You can help make supper.(Donativo)12. Atapuerca--El Peregrino. Nice and pretty new.13. Hontonas--El Pontido.14. Boadilla--En El Camino.



15. Carrion--Santa Maria. Parochial, pilgrim singing with the nuns in the evening.16. Terradillos--Los Templarios.18. Mansilla--Municipal. Not to be missed.19. Astorga--San Javier.20. Rabanal--Guacelmo. Clean, beautiful, tea in the afternoon, right across from the church. My favorite on the entire Camino Frances.21. Pieros--El Serbal y La Luna. My second favorite on the whole Camino. Small, rustic but very comfortable, vegetarian, communal meal. Quiet village.22. Villafranca--Ave Fenix. I did not stay here, but ate here. Funky and fun if you need a place to stay.23. Trabadelo--Casa Susi's. Vegetarian, communal meal. Clean and comfortable.24. Triacastella--Albergue Privado. Old House, nice hosts.25. Sarria--I would skip Sarria, if possible, but if you need to stay there, I can recommend Monasteria de la Magdelena.26. Portos--A Pasa de Formiga. Small village, quiet and comfortable. Away from the crowds of the last 100k.27. Salceda--Boni is a riot. That's the name of the place and the name of the owner. The whole building is stone, which means it's cool in the summer, maybe, but cold in the winter.Alberque Milliadora. Looks beautiful. And new modern Robed...it was “Hospital de Peregrinos”, where most pilgrims were staying. 6€. They didn’t have video cameras, didn’t lock the door, no assigned beds, no lockers provided. Thankfully three different police jurisdictions showed up once everyone realized what happened.1)Hospital de Obrigo - San Miguel most incredible hospitalero Arturo and Pietra with option to paint a canvas. 

2)Rabanal - Albergue Del Pilar lovely bar area, great food and a warm friendly Spanish family run it. Avoid the other places! 

3) Mollenaseca - Hostal St Nicolas - lovely family run establishment they also have a little supermarcado below ( one of my fav villages I stop and stay over each time) 

4) cacabelos - lovely municipal albergue attaches to the church. 

5) villafranca de Bierzo - Albergue Leo - do not miss staying in this very special 300 year old family run home. Modern revamp and delightfully set out. Maria & Mercedes 

6) ocebrerio - casa Campello very clean very modern - one of my most memorable pilgrim blessings in the church where the idea of a camino ‘began’ 

7) fronfria - albergue reboleira massive rooms but lovely and unbelievably special pilgrims meal 

8 ) TriaCastela - Albergue Atrio don’t miss this one. The interior of this old old house has been gorgeously modernized. The albergue bunks are gorgeous and the facility amazing! 

9) Samos - Val de Samos basic simply but the full frontal view of the monastery is why I go back! 

10) Sarria - Albergue Mayor also family run, small quaint, lots of space, great facilities.

11) Portomarin - Albergue ulteria lovely people, extremely well positioned. 

12) melide - San Anton 
13) Santiago - the last stamp 

If you do go to any of these - please tell them Lexi from CapeTown🌅 sends love x 
Buen Camino enjoy every step x


 if you are stopping in hospital de Obrigo you must home to San Miguel albergue. It’s on the left hand side of the main road once you pass the church. It’s a special place.

I am currently on the Camino Francés and staying in a little albergue called La Casa Mágica in Villatuerta just before Estella. 
It is under new ownership, today is there 2nd day. The information on the list of albergues is incorrect. So if you wish to reserve the number is as follows ph. 674709574 
You walk inside to mantra playing, no bunk beds, hot showers, vegetarian and a yoga/meditation area downstairs €14 + €10 for dinner. 
It also has a small pool.. which I’m sure will be open in summer.


Villa Palatina!! Left Oviedo this morning and decided to stop a little short of Grado because I found this beautiful new Albergue. Villa Palatina. A young couple has taken a run down villa in this beautiful little place and renovated it amazingly. Everything is new, super clean and really well done. The food is wonderful. I can only recommend this place very highly. Also, the owners are super friendly, warm and accommodating. And there is a river running just behind the place and you hear that from the rooms. A find. Highly recommend it.


Grañón at the Hospitiler San Juan Bautista.donativo.. highly recommended..


1st day of Camino today and we are staying just outside StJean enroute to begin tomorrow - we have a twin room en-suite at La Coquille Napoleon. Lovely couple who speak great English and the most wonderful view. I highly recommend staying here if you don’t want the 1st day stress of getting a space in the Albergue. We are booked into Roncesvalles tomorrow and are looking forward to sharing a pilgrim meal with others. Met a lovely German man and Dutch lady today and we all traveled together from Bayonne to StJean. Don’t go for dinner at Dede’s. Do go to the pilgrims Mass and Blessing if you would value it. Very moving - 20+ pilgrims from 12 different countries were blessed this evening

If it fits with your schedule, stay at albergue Casa le Magica In Villatuertra. You can call ahead and reserve a bed. For $15 you can have a 25 minute massage!! It was wonderful!!


Anyone walking the Camino Frances and decide to stay at Poblacion de Campos between stages we've just stumbled into a beautiful albergue on the road into town. Albergue la Finca. Bed10 euros, dinner 10 euros. Amazing place.
We can strongly recommend these places to stay: Pension Fernandez in Vega de Valcarce, Casa Garcia in Gonzar (after a long, 8 km uphill stretch in the Sun with nowhere to re-energize), and Casa Domingo, just past San Xulian, the next stop after Gonzar. You probably have to call ahead to make reservations. The need to make reservations was one of the biggest surprises of our Camino experience.
If you really want a luxury experience two days before reaching Santiago, try Pazo de Santa Maria in Arzua. The only problem is that it's 1.5 km off to the right of the Camino path, at the west end of town. If you get to restaurant Retiro at the beginning of Arzua, you can have their van come pick you up. I made the mistake of not thinking of the difference between "en otro lado" (on the other side of) and "al lado" (to the right or left), and ended up 2 km down the Camino path in Pregontogno, completely out of energy after 25 or 26 km that day. My hiking companions got to Retiro and called for the van.
Pamplona..Pension Sarasate Depending on your budget, from low to high: Albergue de Pamplona/Iruñako Aterpea, Pension Escaray, Hotel Maisonnave. All are fabulously located in the historic center of the city. We stayed at Hotel Tres Reyes. Loved the place. Great location. Right on the camino. We began our walk from thereJesus y Maria albergue...great location .Hotel Eslava. It's walkable from train station and right on the Camino if you're starting there. Or if you're going to St. Jean, it is also walkable to the bus station. It's on a quiet street and the staff speak English. https://www.google.com/search?q=casa%20padarborn&ie=UTF-8...
Fantastic albergue in Villatuerta (on the Frances, between Pamplona and Logrono): Casa Magica. Truly. And exceptional vegetarian dinner and breakfast (hard boiled eggs!).
   Puenta La reina   Hotel Jakue! HOTEL JAKUE    Albergue Puente is great and has a nice terrace.


My Must-Stays, aka I would make an active effort to stay in them again:
1. Orisson: Booking ahead needed. As I mentioned in my other post, it split up the walk from SJPDP to Roncesvalles, so I thoroughly enjoyed the day into Roncesvalles. There is NOTHING at Orisson except for the albergue itself, so it’s a lovely place to relax, look at the incredible view, do some yoga, have a beer on the patio – the walk from SJPDP is only 2-3 hours (uphill) so you do not need to leave SJ early. While the albergue itself was not my favorite (the only time I experienced 5 minute showers with tokens, talk about a stressful shampoo experience!) I think it starts the Camino spirit off on the right foot, great communal dinner, and they have everyone stand up and say why they are doing the camino which leads to funny and heartfelt responses. It also lets you meet a great group of people right away.
2. Roncesvalles: Booking ahead needed. It is the biggest albergue I stayed at, and the check-in process can feel a bit stressful b/c of the number of walkers, but for me, it was an unmissable experience. The old monastery was incredible, beautifully refurbished into bed-cubbies of four, the pilgrims mass and blessing also was a great start to my camino, along with the communal dinner. The sense of community and excitement for the Camino ahead was palpable – I felt like I had really started the ancient pilgrimage, here.
3. Azqueta, La Perla Negra: A beautifully artsy, homey, family run place – Elena is wonderful and so friendly, and cooks an amazing communal, vegetarian dinner with vegetables from her garden. A small place with single beds, no bunks, and a very quiet and peaceful town – if you stay in Azqueta, the viewpoint behind the cemetery on the hill is AMAZING and I did a nice yoga session here!
4. Granon, the Hospital de peregrinos San Juan Bautista!!! By far my worst night’s sleep of the Camino, yet one of my favorite experiences. Oh man, this place is special. It’s donativo, you sleep on a mat on the floor (no pillows provided) of an old church/cathedral … but it has a lovely communal space with a big table and a fireplace, books, etc, they took us up to the bell tower, they hold a mass, but the really special part is the communal dinner (they give you a box of fresh veggies and everyone plans together what to make, we went to the shop together, etc.), you make dinner and BYOWine, and then they take you to a candlelight reflection – where the old cathedral is opened and everyone has candles and reflects on camino, etc. I won’t describe it in too much detail to not ruin the surprise but oh man, it was one of the most special experiences of the camino for me. No bookings taken.
5. Castrojeriz, Albergue Ultreia: The bad: the bunk rooms are not the best, crowded and noisy. BUT – the experience makes up for it. The awesome: The space itself is very cool, gorgeous semi-rooftop patio with grass and a fountain, the communal dinner is great, but the best part is the wine cellar tour – ancient underground wine cellar with tasting, you can see the tunnels that run through the whole town, and the hosts are very warm and funny! Great experience.
6. Poblacion de Campos, La Finca: Great, private cubby bunks and modern! Beautiful, rural property, great on-site bar … beautiful dining room and communal dinner – I really loved this place! It’s just a few km past Fromista and though the town is very sleepy, who needs anything other than a beautiful rural albergue?!
7. Carrion de los Condes, Albergue Parroquia Santa Maria: Again, the actual beds were some of my worst – no sheets or pillowcase, but hey, it’s only 5 euros, communal dinner only in summertime so I missed it … but what makes this place REALLY special and absolutely unmissable for me was the singing nuns. I won’t describe it as to not ruin the surprise but let me just say, almost everyone was in tears the day I was there. Pilgrims mass next door right after, and a lovely river through the town. No bookings taken and by 2PM, I was literally the last one in line that got a bed.
8. Calzadilla de los Hermanillos, Albergue Via Trajana **Alternative, “Green” route through the Meseta! Highly recommend!** It’s actually not the hostel itself I would highly recommend (though it was lovely), but the route itself, and this is the mid-way point on it – it takes you off the highways/sendas through the Meseta and I loved the zen, beauty and solitude of this route!! This village is very charming and the hosts and rooms (no bunks in my room, just four single beds!), communal dinner!
9. THIS IS A SERIOUSLY MUST STAY: Albergue Verde in Hospital de Orbigo. I know a lot of people have posted this in Camigas which is why I stayed but oh man, after a sad emotional day for me, this is JUST what I needed. A spiritual, artsy, beautifully decorated place, new and clean but with lots of character, a beautiful backyard with hammocks, lawn chairs, etc, but what makes it seriously special: The hosts, the AMAZING free yoga class that healed my heart, the guitar and music before dinner, the beautiful communal vegetarian meal, the sun streaming through during sunset, the cozy nooks all over the place. Seriously. Stay here if you can.  Also – they don’t provide wine at communal dinner (I know, the horror!) – myself and one other person brought some to share. One note – hitting Hospital de Orbigo naturally takes a bit of planning. If you stay in Leon, it is either two quite short or one VERY long day (I think it’s about 35km after Leon).
10. Castrillo de los Povazares, CasaRural Flores del Camino: Okay, this one is a little bit cheating because unlike all the others, it’s a CasaRural and I got a private room which was heaven after so many dorm nights … but they also run an albergue that you can stay at and are invited to use their patio and communal dinner. There are many things I loved about this place. Family run place! Seriously, the patio/garden is so beautiful, seriously, to-die-for, beautiful furniture, fairy lights. The hosts are into spiritual art and they do an intention exercise after a beautiful homemade communal dinner and intention fire, it’s a very special experience. **THIS IS ON AN ALTERNATE CAMINO ROUTE, a “Blue” route in the Brierly book, the town itself is a artistic heritage site, beautifully preserved, seriously the most beautiful village on the Camino, albeit a bit touristy in daytime** Lots of beautiful bars, etc. as well.
11. Pieros, Albergue Serbal y La Luna: Okay, this one is between my “must-stay” and “really liked” lists, to be honest but – it is different and full of charm and character. It’s a spiritual, artistic, vegetarian place with a lovely communal dinner and a yoga/meditation room. Hospitalero-run.
12. Trabadelo, Casa Susi: This place is simply amazing. Family run, communal dinner, in an old, restored home with lots of original features, single beds (no bunks!), a fireplace, books, etc. But what makes it the most special is Susi and her incredible food and story. Highly recommend, especially as a stop after the Pradelo green route and before O’Ceib.




Also liked, if you happen to be in these places, but not as "must do" as the ones above for me :
1. Urditz, just past Zubiri: Albergue Aca y Alla: 3km past Zubiri, before Larasoanna. The last 3K were hard for me, I was tired. But this little albergue right off of the Camino in Urditz is family run, has a little pool, a covered patio, a lovely homecooked dinner (incl. fabulous salad!), a living room with a couch, very cozy and communal. I’ve heard people say Susei in Zubiri is wonderful too but it was full when I checked so this is a good alternative.
2. Obanos, albergue Atseden: I didn’t love this town, I actually wish I had stayed a few towns before in Uterga when I passed through, no communal dinner and I didn’t feel as much “soul” there but the albergue itself was BEAUTIFULLY new and modern, private cubby bunks, very comfortable.
3. Logrono, Winederful hostel: As I mentioned, I didn’t like my stay in cities because I felt like it took me out of my camino-zen experience, but this IS a very nice modern hostel with cubby bunks and a nice location and communal space, though not limited to pilgrims so I didn’t meet many people here.
4. Moratinos, Hostel Moratinos: A nice rural village with a beautiful hobbit-hole hill on which to watch the sunset, no communal dinner BUT bar/restaurant onsite with pilgrims menu and other food and everyone at the hostel ate together anyways because well, there was no where else to go 😉 But I loved the feel of this village, did some yoga on the porch, nice convos on the patio.
5. Puente de Villarente, Albergue San Pelayo: If you are trying to avoid staying in Leon, as I was, this was a good “before” option. The town is nothing special but this is tucked away from the main drag and they have a lovely, rural home feel with a beautiful backyard, lovely communal dinner, and it’s also a hotel so they have a nice living room area with big couches and games. I had a very nice night here!
6. Oncina de la Valdoncina, Albergue El Pajar de Oncina: Again, avoiding Leon and just after it – this place is full of character and has lovely hosts, onsite bar, family run, beautiful communal dinner, quirky and artsy furnishings 😊
7. Fonfria, after O’Ceibreiro, Albergue A Reboleira: The bunk room itself is nothing special, and it’s huge, which gives the factory-albergue-feel to it that I don’t love. But I’m recommending this if you’re in the area because of the communal dinner; in a very cool additional house, lovely food, nice atmosphere, onsite bar, a patio, and good company.
8. San Mamed do Camino, right before Sarria if you’re avoiding staying in Sarria (which I would recommend doing), Albergue Paloma y Lena: A nice, rural, farmy place – lovely front yard, couches, family run, nice communal dinner and communal spaces 😊 very comfortable and peaceful.
9. Portos, A Paso de Orbiga: I really had a wonderful evening here, but I was with some friends, towards the end of the Camino – it’s a small place attached to a bar/restaurant, the albergue is cute, artsy, big couch, and the people who run it are lovely (and even gave us some free Heirbas shots at the end of the night – okay, we had probably spent a decent amount in wine bottles already …)
10. Santa Irene, Albergue Santa Irene (Privado): In an old, restored home with a garden, it’s family run, quaint and full of character, I kept thinking that it felt like “grandmas house” 😊 Lovely communal dinner! But, right off of the highway, like everything in the area, though this one is set back a bit from it. I stayed here the last night into Santiago.
If you’re passing through San Antón on the Francés soon, stay at the monastery! There is a lovely Dutch hospitalera and she cooks am amazing vegetarian dinner. There is no electricity, hot water, WiFi, or cell service. You eat by candlelight amongst ruins from the 11th century. Incredible experience with so much history. She will be there for 2 weeks and is worth getting to know. We prepared dinner together and it was unforgettable.
http://caminodesantiago.consumer.es/albergue-parroquial-de-zabaldika .

The Hostels: Parish Hostel of Zabaldika

Albergue Municipal Jesús y María
In Pamplona
Municipal albergue in Pamplona, with 112 beds, in a former (restored) church. Located in the old town in Pamplona, very close to the Cathedral.
This popular Albergue open doors at 12pm and is often full by mid-afternoon. 


Other hostels in Pamplona


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